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rod purchase can be a big investment, so follow the steps in this
article and I know you’ll make a good purchase.
you’re a beginner, avid weekend angler, or seasoned pro, choosing the
right rod is essential. Owning and using the right rod has many, many
benefits. If you don’t have or use the right rod; this can lead to
many problems. One problem in particular is missed fish strikes. I’ll
address these issues a little later.
I started out as a beginner bass fisherman, I made many mistakes. To
start with, I didn’t have a lot of money to spend on fishing
equipment. Nor, did I think it was important to spend much money
purchasing high-end technique specific rods. So I started by purchasing
a bunch $25 to $50 rods at Wal-Mart or the local bait shop.
is all fine and good right?
is if you plan to go fishing a very limited amount of time per year, or
in other words you’re not really serious about bass fishing. But, if
you are serious about bass fishing; some changes are in order.
first thing one should learn is the parts of rod and rod terminology.
of a rod:
End Cap or Butt: Handle,
where one holds the rod, usually made of cork or foam. End Cap or Butt a
part that covers the end of the handle.
seat: Where the
reel attaches to the rod.
grip: The front of
the handle just in front of the reel seat. Usually made of cork, foam or
not present. The removal of the fore grip lightens the weight of the rod
and provides better sensitivity.
What the fishing line runs though to connect the line to the rod.
hanger: A place
where the hook or lure can be connected or stored to the rod when not in
blank: The actual
rod; usually made up with some kind of graphite.
A type of modulus or ampli-fibers used in the make-up of the rod blank.
composite: A type of
modulus, glass combined with graphite in the make-up of the rod blank.
and two piece:
Telescopic, the rod breaks down by sliding down into the handle to
shorten the length and make it’s easier to store the rod when not in
piece rod; the rod comes apart making it two pieces for easier storage
and better travel ability. Most of these rods are referred to as travel
Casting is used for bait casting reels. Spinning is for use with a
Length: The length of the rod usually including length of the
Action: The kind of
response expected from the rod tip section. Typically this is referred
to as fast a quick response, moderate response, or moderate-fast.
Power: The mid
section of the rod blank down to the handle. The kind of backbone or
muscle expected from the rod blank. Typically this is referred to as
light, medium, heavy, med-heavy, and extra heavy.
The feel of the bait, bottom surface, cover, structure, or fish
weight: The lure size rating recommended for the rod.
size rating recommended for the rod.
guides: The kind of inserts used in the guides. This type is
made for use with braided lines, and better cast ability.
guides: The kind of
inserts used in the guides. This type is made for use with braided
lines, better cast ability, and used with lighter guides.
guides: The kind of inserts used in the guides. Cheaper kind
of guide insert, not suited for braided lines.
second thing to understand is the importance of having and using the
correct rod for a certain bait, technique, or presentation. There are in
some instances where one rod can be used for multiple applications. But,
do not fall into the thinking that one rod does it all! This is far from
the truth, and is where many beginners make a mistake.
rod is designed for certain purposes, and the more experience you have
using different rods you’ll see the differences.
what kind of bait, technique, or presentation for one rod you plan on
using. An example would be a rod to use with spinnerbaits.
next thing is to do some research before you head to the store and make
any rod purchases. Something to remember at this point; you are looking
for the type, length and action for a rod. You are not deciding on the
manufacture or model just yet; that will come later. Try not to get over
anxious, and make an impulse purchase (doing so will almost always end
days there are a lot of manufactures who offer “Technique Specific”
rods, which help take some of the guess work out of finding the correct
rod. Ask a close friend what they use. Or, stop by your local sporting
goods store and ask to look at some of their rod catalogs they have.
While at the store talk with the clerk about the application you plan on
using the rod for. Ask the clerk what they suggest as far as type,
length and action that would be best. These resources are a very good
place to start.
regards to length of the rod, you’ll want to find one that suits you
best according to your height. As an example; for a spinnerbait I use a
6’6” Kistler. I am 5’ 8” so the 6’ 6” is a perfect fit for
me. Still using a spinnerbait as an example; If you were planning on
fishing 1/8oz to 3/4oz spinnerbaits you most likely would want a rod
with a fast action tip, med-heavy power bait caster.
thing that will help is to visit website discussion boards i.e. www.FutureBass.com
, www.USABassin.com , www.Ultimatebass.com
. Here you can post questions to other anglers about what you are
looking for. This can be very helpful.
that you have gotten to this point; it is time to learn the importance
of using a sensitive, lightweight high quality rod. There is a huge
difference between low quality low cost rods, verses higher cost high
quality rods other than the price. The phrase “You get what you pay
for” has never been truer when it comes to fishing rods.
difference between rods is like night and day. With a lighter more
sensitive rod you will feel the bottom, cover, structure, lure, and most
of all fish strikes much better. Also, with a lighter rod, your arms
will be less fatigued after a long day on the water. Many anglers do not
realize when the body gets fatigued, the sense of feel diminishes. With
a less sensitive, heavier rod you’ll not be able to work the lure
properly. This not only adds up to less strikes on a given day, but more
missed hook sets too. You’ll also not be able to feel many of the
subtle light strikes that all too often go undetected.
is at this point when you should decide how much you can afford to spend
on a rod. It’s in my opinion, a mistake to buy a bunch of mid-grade
rods for let’s say $40-$60 each; only to turn around the following
year and replace them with high-end rods.
say this because the money spent on the mid-grade rods is in a way
wasted. Selling them is hard to do, and what you do sell them for is
pennies on the dollar.
best thing to do if you can’t afford many of the higher cost rods; is
buy one or two high-end rods for your favorite baits or techniques. Use
them for awhile perfecting those techniques until you can afford to
purchase more down the road.
now that you have gone thru all these steps it’s time to decide on
that first rod.
a friend or go back to the websites mentioned earlier and get opinions
from others about rods they use. Remember, to get multiple feedbacks to
make a better decision.
use Kistler, Helium LTA, Graphite Plus, and Helium II rods exclusively.
I am very happy with their overall performance! These rods are very
sensitive, lightweight, one of a kind hook hanger, flanged ring tips to
keep from rings being knocked out, smooth action and comfortable
hand/palm fit! Not to mention the “NO Hassle Lifetime Warranty”
ever rod you decide on, don’t forget to checkout the warranty policies
that go along with the rod! It’s a good investment to purchase a rod
that has a good lifetime warranty!
go to your local sporting goods store and checkout the rods first hand
to make your final decision.
this article was helpful to you, please shoot me an email and let me
know. I would be glad to hear from you. Justin@usabassin.com
luck with your rod purchase, and good luck fishing!